Burden of Dreams (climb)
| Burden of Dreams | |
|---|---|
  | |
| Location | Lappnor, near Loviisa, Finland |
| Coordinates | 60°25′26″N 26°08′08″E / 60.423895°N 26.135606°E |
| Route type | Bouldering |
| Vertical gain | 4 metres (13 ft)[1] |
| Rating | 9A (V17) |
| First ascent | Nalle Hukkataival, 23 October 2016[2] |
Burden of Dreams is a 4-metre (13 ft) red granite grade 9A (V17) bouldering problem at Lappnor near Loviisa, in Finland. It was first climbed by Finnish climber Nalle Hukkataival on 23 October 2016, who spent four years projecting the boulder,[3] and features in the 2017 climbing film, The Lappnor Project.[4][5]
Climbing awarded Hukkataival a Golden Piton in 2016 for having the courage to grade it at 9A (V17),[6] making Burden of Dreams the world's first-ever boulder problem at the 9A (V17) grade.[7][8]
After resisting further attempts by the world's strongest climbers for many years, including by Shawn Raboutou and Stefano Ghisolfi,[9] it was finally repeated by British climber Will Bosi on 12 April 2023.[10] Bosi practiced on a 3D-printed replica of the key holds and movements of the route in the United Kingdom, before attempting the actual boulder in Finland.[11][12] Bosi also confirmed the grade of V17 (9A).[13]
After Bosi's repeat, climbing hold manufacturers began to offer highly accurate 3D-scanned replicas of the holds on Burden of Dreams to the public; and by altering the gradient to vertical, instead of a 45-degree overhang on the real route, it was estimated that the grade of difficulty is softened to almost V2 (5+).[14]
Ascents
[edit]Burden of Dreams has been ascended by:
- 1st. Nalle Hukkataival on 23 October 2016.[3][6]
- 2nd. William Bosi on 12 April 2023.[7][11][12][13]
- 3rd. Simon Lorenzi on 27 December 2023.[15]
- 4th. Elias Iagnemma on 25 March 2024.[16][17]
Filmography
[edit]- Documentary on the first ascent: The Lappnor Project (Motion picture). Blue Kangoo Films. 2017.[18]
See also
[edit]- History of rock climbing
- List of grade milestones in rock climbing
- Midnight Lightning, famous V8 (7B/7B+) boulder in Camp 4 (Yosemite)
- Dreamtime, famous V15 (8C) boulder in Cresciano, Switzerland
- The Wheel of Life, famous V15 (8C) boulder in the Grampians, Australia
References
[edit]- ^ "The Lappnor Project: The story behind the first 9A boulder". BlueKangooFilms. 2017. Retrieved 5 August 2023.
- ^ Pardy, Aaron (9 January 2023). "Will This Be the Year That Burden of Dreams V17 Finally Gets Repeated?". Gripped Magazine. Retrieved 4 August 2023.
- ^ a b Borrell, Brendan (22 February 2017). "Burden of Dreams: The Crazy Hard Boulder Problem That Took Four Years to Send". Outside. Retrieved 5 August 2023.
- ^ "Nalle Hukkataival Sends World's First V17". Rock & Ice. 26 October 2016. Retrieved 5 August 2023.
- ^ "Trailer: Nalle Hukkataival's Lappnor Project (V17)". Climbing. 14 November 2016. Retrieved 5 August 2023.
- ^ a b Blanchard, Brendan (26 April 2017). "2016 Golden Pitons: Boldest Move. Nalle Hukkataival, Helsinki, Finland". Climbing. Retrieved 7 August 2023.
- ^ a b Koronka, Poppy (5 June 2023). "William Bosi: Rock-hard climb is conquered using a 3D printer". The Times. Retrieved 28 June 2023.
- ^ Walker, Noah (27 January 2022). "The World's Hardest Boulder Problems". Gripped.com. Retrieved 29 January 2022.
- ^ Pardy, Aaron (7 April 2023). "Burden of Dreams V17 May Get Its Second Ascent Soon". Gripped Magazine. Retrieved 5 August 2023.
- ^ Potter, Stephen (24 April 2023). "Will Bosi Sends 'Burden of Dreams' (V17)". Climbing. Retrieved 28 June 2023.
- ^ a b Goodyear, Sheena (5 June 2023). "He climbed one of the world's most difficult boulders — after practicing on a 3D model". CBC News. Retrieved 28 June 2023.
- ^ a b Ali, Taz (5 June 2023). "British man Will Bosi completes world's toughest boulder climb after practicing on 3D-printed replica". The Independent (online). Retrieved 28 June 2023.
- ^ a b "Will Bosi repeats Burden of Dreams 9A in Finland!". PlanetMountain. 14 April 2023. Retrieved 28 June 2023.
- ^ Potter, Stephen (12 October 2023). "Now You Too Can Set the World's Hardest Replica". Climbing. Retrieved 7 November 2023.
- ^ Berry, Nathalie (28 December 2023). "Simon Lorenzi repeats Burden of Dreams 9A". UKClimbing.
- ^ White, Xa (26 March 2024). "Burden of Dreams, 9A, receives fourth ascent". UKClimbing. Retrieved 26 March 2024.
- ^ Pardy, Aaron (26 March 2024). "Elias Iagnemma Makes Fourth Ascent of Burden of Dreams V17". Gripped. Retrieved 26 March 2024.
- ^ "The Night Of – A Supplement to The Lappnor Project". Rock & Ice. 8 November 2017. Retrieved 5 August 2023.
External links
[edit]- Burden of Dreams 9A / V17 History and Legacy, Hard Climbs (2023)
- Burden of Dreams 9A | V17, Climbing History (2024)
- Rock Stars: 10 of the Most Famous Boulder Problems in the World, 99Boulders (2021)
- VIDEO: Nalle Hukkataival Burden of Dreams, backstage video of world's first 9A boulder, PlanetMountain (2017)
- VIDEO: Shawn Raboutou and Aidan Roberts projecting Burden of Dreams, Gripped Magazine (2023)
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