Jakob Schubert

Jakob Schubert
Jakob Schubert at the 2018 IFSC Climbing World Championships
Personal information
NationalityAustrian
Born (1990-12-31) December 31, 1990 (age 33)
Innsbruck, Austria
OccupationProfessional sport climber
Height176 cm (5 ft 9 in)
Weight63 kg (139 lb)
Websitewww.jakob-schubert.com Edit this at Wikidata
Climbing career
Type of climber
Highest grade
Known for
  • Three-time World Cup (lead) winner (2011, 2014, 2018)
  • Four-time World (lead) Champion (2012, 2018, 2021, 2023)
  • Two-time Olympic medalist (combined)
  • Most men's IFSC Gold Medals
First ascents
  • Companion of Change (9a+, 2015)
  • Kein Licht Kein Schatten (9a, 2016)
  • B.I.G. (9c, 2023)
Medal record
Men's competition climbing
Representing  Austria
Olympic Games
Bronze medal – third place 2020 Tokyo Combined
Bronze medal – third place 2024 Paris Combined
World Championships
Gold medal – first place 2012 Paris Lead
Gold medal – first place 2018 Innsbruck Lead
Gold medal – first place 2018 Innsbruck Combined
Gold medal – first place 2021 Moscow Lead
Gold medal – first place 2023 Bern Lead
Gold medal – first place 2023 Bern Combined
Silver medal – second place 2011 Arco Lead
Silver medal – second place 2016 Paris Lead
Silver medal – second place 2019 Hachiōji Bouldering
Silver medal – second place 2019 Hachiōji Combined
Bronze medal – third place 2019 Hachiōji Lead
World Cup
Winner 2011 Lead
Winner 2011 Combined
Winner 2012 Combined
Winner 2013 Combined
Winner 2014 Lead
Third place 2015 Lead
Second place 2016 Lead
Second place 2016 Combined
Winner 2018 Lead
Winner 2018 Combined
World Youth Championships
Gold medal – first place 2007 Youth Lead
Gold medal – first place 2008 Juniors Lead
Gold medal – first place 2009 Juniors Lead
Silver medal – second place 2005 Youth Lead
Silver medal – second place 2006 Youth Lead
European Championships
Gold medal – first place 2022 Munich Combined
Bronze medal – third place 2010 Lead
Bronze medal – third place 2013 Bouldering
Bronze medal – third place 2017 Lead
Updated on August 9, 2024

Jakob Schubert (born December 31, 1990) is an Austrian professional rock climber, specializing in competition climbing (lead and boulder), sport climbing, and bouldering. He is a four-time World Champion (2012, 2018, 2021, 2023) and three-time World Cup winner (2011, 2014, 2018) in lead climbing. He is a two-time Olympic bronze medalist in the combined event (2020 and 2024).

As of 2023, Schubert had won the most men's IFSC gold medals of any male competition climber in history.

In addition to competition climbing, Schubert is the only climber in the world to have redpointed a 9c (5.15d) graded sport climbing route and climbed a 9A (V17) graded bouldering problem.

Climbing career

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Competition climbing

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Schubert started competition climbing in 2003 when he was twelve years old. In 2004, he participated in the European Youth Cup and World Youth Championships. Since 2007, he regularly participates in World Cup competitions for lead climbing. For seven World Cup seasons out of ten, from 2007 to 2016, he also competed in bouldering.[citation needed]

In 2011, he won the Lead World Cup and the silver medal at the Lead World Championships in Arco.[1] The World Cup was outstandingly obtained by winning seven consecutive competitions in that season. Previously, no climber was ever able to win as many World Cup competitions in a single season (in 2002, Alexandre Chabot had won six).[2]

In 2012, he won the Lead Climbing World Championships in Paris.[3]

In 2014, he won the Lead World Cup for the second time.[4]

In 2018, when he was 27 years old, he became World Champion again, in his own birthplace and hometown, Innsbruck. He earned the title by reaching in the final event the same score as Adam Ondra (36+), but a higher score in the semifinal, where he ranked second after Domen Škofic. A few days later, in the same competition, he also conquered the Combined title by ranking second in Speed, first in Bouldering, and second in Lead. In the same year, he was awarded his third World Cup.[citation needed]

Schubert's performance at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships qualified him for a place at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo,[5] where he won the bronze medal in the combined event.[6]

Schubert won the lead event at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships, becoming the oldest world champion in the sport.[7] He followed that up by winning the combined event, which qualified him to compete in the combined event at the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris.[8]

He won a bronze medal in the combined event at the 2024 Summer Olympics.[9]

Rock climbing

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In 2023, Schubert became the only person in the world to have climbed the top grade in both bouldering and sport climbing.[10]

Rankings

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Jakob Schubert at the World Cup in Munich, 2012.
See also: Best IFSC results

Climbing World Cup

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Discipline[11] 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018
Lead 26 7 4 2 1 3 2 1 3 2 6 1
Bouldering 60 65 19 3 2 - 25 23 10 9
Speed - - - - - 43 59 - - - - 59
Combined - - 4 2 1 1 1 - 4 2 6 1

Climbing World Championships

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Youth[12]

Discipline 2004
Youth B 		2005
Youth B 		2006
Youth A 		2007
Youth A 		2008
Juniors 		2009
Juniors
Lead 33 2 2 1 1 1

Adult[12]

Discipline 2009 2011 2012 2014 2016 2018 2019 2021 2023
Lead 26 2 1 5 2 1 3 1 1
Bouldering - - - - - 10 2 27 12
Speed - - - - - 110 59 - -
Combined - - - - - 1 2 - 1

Climbing European Championships

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Discipline[12] 2008 2010 2013 2015 2017
Lead 6 3 7 6 3
Bouldering - - 3 4 -
Speed - - 35 27 31

Number of medals in the Climbing European Youth Cup

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Lead

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Season[12] Category Gold Silver Bronze Total
2004 Youth B 1 1
2005 Youth B 1 1
2006 Youth A 3 1 1 5
Total 3 1 3 7

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

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Lead

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Season[12] Gold Silver Bronze Total
2008 1 1
2009 1 1 2
2010 1 2 1 4
2011 7 1 1 9
2012 1 3 1 5
2013 2 2 1 5
2014 2 1 2 5
2015 2 2 4
2016 2 3 5
2017 2 1 3
2018 2 3 5
2019 1 1
2020 1 1
2021 1 1
2023 1 1 2
2024 1 1
Total 21 17 16 54

Bouldering

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Season[12] Gold Silver Bronze Total
2011 1 1
2012 1 1 2
2013 1 1 1 3
2018 1 1
2019 1 1 2
2021 1 1
2024 1 1
Total 3 2 6 11

Number of medals in the Olympics

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Combined

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Summer Olympics Gold Silver Bronze Total
2020 1 1
2024 1 1
Total 0 0 2 2

Notable ascents

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Redpointed routes

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9c (5.15d):

9b+ (5.15c):

9b (5.15b):

9a+ (5.15a)

  • Es Pontàs – Mallorca (ESP) – October, 2021 – Fourth ascent of Chris Sharma's 2006 route.
  • Catxasa – Santa Linya (ESP) – January 9, 2018 – Second ascent after Chris Sharma
  • Seleccio Anal – Oliana (ESP) – January 8, 2017
  • Pachamama – Oliana (ESP) – January 2, 2017 – Third ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2009)
  • Joe Mama – Oliana (ESP) – December 27, 2016 – Second ascent after Chris Sharma
  • Kangroo Limb – Flatanger (NOR) – May 29, 2016 – Second ascent after Adam Ondra
  • Companion of Change – Zillertal (AUT) – November 18, 2015 – First ascent
  • Papichulo – Oliana (ESP) – April 27, 2011 – Sixth ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2008)[15]

9a (5.14d):

  • Kein Licht Kein Schatten – Ötztal (AUT) – November 8, 2016 – First ascent
  • Kraftplatzl – Berglsteiner See (AUT) – October 15, 2016 – Second Ascent after David Lama
  • Direct open your mind – Santa Linya (ESP) – January 3, 2013
  • Fuck the System – Santa Linya (ESP)- January 2, 2013[16]
  • Analogica Natural – Santa Linya (ESP) – January 2, 2013[16]
  • Seleccio Natural – Santa Linya (ESP) – December 28, 2012
  • Ciudad de Dios – Santa Linya (ESP) – December 24, 2012
  • Martin Krpan – Misja Pec (SVN) – November 21, 2011[17]
  • Hades – Nassereith, Götterwand (AUT) – May 30, 2010 – First ascent by Andreas Bindhammer, 2008[18]
  • Underground – Massone, Arco (ITA) – March 30, 2010 – First ascent by Manfred Stuffer, 1998

Onsighted routes

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8c (5.14b):

Boulder problems

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9A (V17)
8C (V15)
  • Sierra Madre – Zillertal (AUT) – November 20, 2018
8B+ (V14)
  • Witness the fitness – Cova de Ocell (ESP) – January 13, 2019 – flashed [21]
  • Hide and Sick – Maltatal (AUT) – March 25, 2018
  • Off the Wagon - Val Bavona (CHE) January 10, 2020

See also

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References

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  1. ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (November 28, 2011). "Puigblanque re di Spagna, insieme a Eiter, Kim e Markovic". Retrieved December 23, 2011.
  2. ^ climbmagazine.com, ed. (October 22, 2011). "Record 7 World Cup wins". Archived from the original on July 23, 2012. Retrieved April 15, 2012.
  3. ^ Franz Schiassi (September 18, 2012). planetmountain.com (ed.). "Campionati del Mondo di arrampicata sportiva 2012, tutti i risultati da Parigi". Retrieved September 18, 2012.
  4. ^ "Jain Kim and Jakob Schubert win the Lead World Cup 2014". PlanetMountain.com. 2014-10-28. Retrieved 2022-09-04.
  5. ^ "Jakob Schubert and Alexander Megos qualify for the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo". LACRUX Klettermagazin. 19 August 2019. Retrieved 18 July 2021.
  6. ^ "Tokyo Olympics: Sport Climbing - Men's Combined results". BBC Sport. 2021-08-03. Retrieved 2024-08-09.
  7. ^ "LEAD RECORDS BROKEN BY MORI AND SCHUBERT IN BERN". August 6, 2023. Retrieved August 13, 2023.
  8. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships 2023: Jakob Schubert adds combined boulder and lead title to lead gold in Bern". August 12, 2023. Retrieved August 13, 2023.
  9. ^ "Sport Climbing Men's Boulder & Lead. Individual Medals and Ranking". Paris Olympics 2024.
  10. ^ "NEWSFLASH: Alphane, 9A, for Jakob Schubert". www.ukclimbing.com. 2023-12-21. Retrieved 2024-08-09.
  11. ^ IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  12. ^ a b c d e f IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "Schubert's profile and rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  13. ^ a b c d e f g h i "Jakob Schubert proposes 9c for B.I.G. at Flatanger". PlanetMountain. 28 September 2023. Retrieved 28 September 2023.
  14. ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (January 2, 2015). "Jakob Schubert ripete Fight or Flight 9b a Oliana in Spagna". Retrieved February 19, 2015.
  15. ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (April 28, 2011). "Jakob Schubert e Gabriele Moroni scatenati". Retrieved December 22, 2011.
  16. ^ a b up-climbing.com, ed. (January 3, 2013). "Realizzazioni spagnole per Schubert e Midtboe". Archived from the original on April 12, 2013. Retrieved January 5, 2013.
  17. ^ up-climbing.com, ed. (November 27, 2011). "9a per Jakob Schubert". Archived from the original on 2011-12-26. Retrieved December 22, 2011.
  18. ^ up-climbing.com, ed. (June 2, 2010). "Jakob Schubert – 9a". Retrieved December 22, 2011.[permanent dead link]
  19. ^ up-climbing.com, ed. (April 25, 2011). "Jakob Schubert 8c onsight". Archived from the original on 2016-03-07. Retrieved December 22, 2011.
  20. ^ "Instagram". www.instagram.com. Retrieved 2023-12-21.
  21. ^ "Jakob Schubert flashes 8B+ boulder Catalan Witness the Fitness". PlanetMountain.com. 13 January 2018. Retrieved 2019-03-29.
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