Sandown

Sandown
Sandown is located in Isle of Wight
Sandown
Sandown
Location within the Isle of Wight
Population11,654 (2021 Census)
OS grid referenceSZ600843
Civil parish
  • Sandown
Unitary authority
Ceremonial county
Region
CountryEngland
Sovereign stateUnited Kingdom
Post townSANDOWN
Postcode districtPO36
Dialling code01983
PoliceHampshire and Isle of Wight
FireHampshire and Isle of Wight
AmbulanceIsle of Wight
UK Parliament
List of places
UK
England
Isle of Wight
50°39′18″N 1°09′15″W / 50.6551°N 1.1541°W / 50.6551; -1.1541

Sandown is a seaside resort and civil parish on the south-east coast of the Isle of Wight, England. The neighbouring resort of Shanklin and the settlement of Lake are sited just to the south of the town. Sandown has a population of 11,654 according to the 2021 Census,[1] and the three Sandown Bay settlements form a built-up area of more than 20,000 inhabitants.[2] Sandown is the Bay's northernmost town, with its easily accessible, sandy beaches running continuously from the cliffs below Battery Gardens in the south to Yaverland in the north.

History

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There is some evidence for a pre-Roman settlement in the area.[3] During the Roman period, it was a site of salt production.[3]

Before the 19th century, Sandown was on the map chiefly for its military significance, with the Bay's beaches feared to offer easy landing spots for invaders from the Continent.

It is the site of the lost Sandown Castle. While undergoing construction in 1545, the fortification was attacked during the French invasion of the Isle of Wight when invaders fought their way over Culver Down from Whitecliff Bay before being repelled. The castle was built into the sea, prone to erosion and demolished fewer than a hundred years after it was built. In 1631, the castle was replaced by Sandham Fort,[4] built further inland. In 1781, the fort's complement consisted of a master gunner and over twenty soldiers.[5] Sandham Fort was demolished in the mid-19th century and is now the site of Sandham Gardens.

Sandown Barrack Battery, a Palmerston Fort built in the 1860s

In the 1860s, five Palmerston Forts were built along the coast of Sandown Bay, including Granite Fort at Yaverland, now the Wildheart Animal Sanctuary. On the town's western cliffs Sandown Barrack Battery survives as a scheduled monument and Bembridge Fort, where the National Trust offers tours, can be seen on the downs to the north-east.[6]

One of the first non-military buildings was Sandham Cottage or 'Villakin', a holiday home leased by the radical politician and one-time Mayor of London John Wilkes in the final years of the 18th century.[7] See 'Sandown's famous connections' below.

The arrival of the railway in 1864 saw Sandown grow as a Victorian resort, with the town's safe bathing becoming increasingly popular. In the summer of 1874, the Crown Prince Frederick and Princess Victoria of Germany, their children and entourage rented several properties in the town and took regular dips in the Bay.[8] Sandown's pier was built in the same decade, opening in May 1878, and extended in length in 1895.

The former Ocean Hotel

The town laid further claim to becoming a fashionable English resort when the Ocean Hotel opened in 1899. The brainchild of West End theatrical impresario Henry Lowenfeld, the Ocean built around the town's previous hotel of choice, the King's Head. For the new hotel's inauguration, a large number of dignitaries were invited from London, arriving in Sandown from Portsmouth by special boat. Guests had the chance to explore Sandown in coaches and carriages, and the hotel servants were all dressed in uniforms 'like admirals and post-captains'.[9]

Sandown's destiny in the 20th century was to become a favourite bucket-and-spade destination for all classes. The Canoe Lake was opened in 1929 by the author Henry De Vere Stacpoole followed in 1932 by Brown's Golf Course (see below). The Art Deco Grand Hotel, opened next door to Brown's in April 1938, is now closed with planning permission for demolition granted in 2014.

A view of Sandown and its pier from the south end of the Bay

Today, Sandown's esplanade has a mixture of former Victorian and Edwardian hotels with modern counterparts overlooking the beach and the Bay. A new Premier Inn opened in 2021.[10]

The original Sandown Pier was opened in 1878 and extended to its present length in 1895. The Pier Pavilion Theatre closed in the 1990s and the pier's former landing stage is used for sea fishing today.

Further north is the Wildheart Animal Sanctuary, formerly Isle of Wight Zoo.[11] Established as Sandown Zoo in the 1950s, it was acquired by the Corney family in the 1970s; today, it specialises in rescued tigers, other big cats and primates. Nearby is the purpose-built Dinosaur Isle palaeontology centre, which opened in 2001, and Sandham Gardens,[12] which offers a dinosaur miniature golf course, attractions for children and young people, and bowls.

HMS Eurydice

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HMS Eurydice foundering in 1878

On 24 March 1878, the Royal Navy training ship HMS Eurydice capsized and sank in Sandown Bay with the loss of 317 lives, one of Britain's worst peacetime naval disasters. The tops of the vessel's sunken masts were still visible from Sandown two months later, on the day the town's pier was opened.[13]

The ship was re-floated in August and beached at Yaverland to be pumped out, the subject of a painting by Henry Robins (1820-1892) for Queen Victoria who came over from Osborne House with other members of her family to see the wreck.[14]

There is a memorial to crew of the Eurydice in the graveyard of Christ Church, Sandown.

Geography

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The town is surrounded by natural features that form part of the Isle of Wight Biosphere Reserve designated by UNESCO's Man and the Biosphere Programme in June 2019.[15] The area features walks along the Isle of Wight Coastal Path.

The bay that gives Sandown its name is an example of a concordant coastline, with 5 miles (8 km) of tidal beaches from Luccombe to Culver replenished by longshore drift.[16] Sandown Bay has one of the longest unbroken beaches in the British Isles.[17]

Red Cliff and Culver Cliff at the northern end of Sandown Bay

To the north-east is Culver Down, mostly owned and managed by the National Trust. It supports typical chalk downland wildlife, and seabirds and birds of prey which nest on the cliffs.

Nearby is the flood plain of the Eastern Yar, one of the few freshwater wetlands on the Isle of Wight, where Alverstone Mead Local Nature Reserve is popular for birdwatching. Sandown Meadows Nature Reserve, acquired by the Hampshire and Isle of Wight Wildlife Trust in 2012, is a place to spot kingfishers and water voles.[18] Further inland, Borthwood Copse provides woodland walks, with many bluebells in the Spring.

The area's marine sub-littoral zone, including the reefs and seabed, is a Special Area of Conservation. At extreme low tide, a petrified forest may be revealed in the northern part of the bay, and fragments of petrified wood are often washed up.

Town Hall

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Sandown Town Hall

Commissioned by the local board of health in 1869, the Grade II listed Sandown Town Hall is in Grafton Street.[19] In March 2021, the Isle of Wight Council granted planning permission to convert the building for housing[20] and subsequently decided to dispose of the Town Hall while exploring opportunities for community use.[21] In 2022, paint samples found evidence of the celebrated multi-coloured ceiling decorated by Henry Tooth in 1873, hidden for many decades beneath layers of 20th century paint.[22] In 2023, government funding was announced to renovate parts of the Town Hall for youth and community services.[23]

Brown's golf course

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The distinctive 1930s roof tiles at Brown's Golf Course on Sandown seafront

Designed by one of the UK's leading players of the time, Henry Cotton, the Brown's pitch and putt courses were the idea of south London pie and sausage maker Alex Kennedy. Opened on Sandown's eastern sea front in March 1932, the original clubhouse had the motto Golf for Everybody emblazoned on its roof.[24] Brown's and its ice cream factory were reportedly adapted in the 1940s to disguise pumping apparatus for Pipeline Under the Ocean (PLUTO) intended to deliver oil to the D-Day beaches. A conservation management plan for the 7.5-hectare (19-acre) site was published in July 2020.[25]

Events

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Sandown Main Carnival in July 2022

The town's summer carnival has existed since 1889.[26] Today, Sandown Carnival Association puts on a series of events including the Children's Carnival and Illuminated Carnival, Sandown Bay Regatta, and New Year's Day Celebrations with a fireworks display. Arts Council England funding was received in 2023 and 2024 to revive the town's tradition of wearing hats on Regatta day.[27]

Amenities

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Sandown's 1920s bandstand, now a café

Sandown offers an assortment of restaurants, cafes, bars and pubs along the seafront and in the town. Sandown Pier is a popular attraction for amusements and refreshments, and there are new cafes and eating places along the seafront promenade towards Lake and Shanklin.

Boojum and Snark at 105 High Street opened in 2019 as a venue for art exhibitions and community events, with its name inspired by author Lewis Carroll who stayed across the road in the 1870s.[28]

Transport

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Sandown station, opened in 1864

Sandown railway station is a stop on the Island Line, the Isle of Wight's one remaining public railway line from Ryde Pier Head to Shanklin. Services are operated by South Western Railway.[29]

Sandown is served by buses run by Southern Vectis with direct services to Bembridge, Newport, Ryde, Shanklin and Ventnor. Night buses run on Fridays and Saturdays.[30]

Media location

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The UK group Take That filmed the video for their fifth single "I Found Heaven" on Sandown's beaches and sea front in 1992.[31]

Sandown High School and locations nearby were used in the 1972 film That'll Be The Day starring David Essex, Ringo Starr, Billy Fury and Rosemary Leach.[32]

The TV series Tiger Island, on ITV and National Geographic in 2007 and 2008,[33] chronicled the lives of the more than twenty tigers living at Isle of Wight Zoo.

Sandown featured in the Channel 5 series Isle of Wight: Jewel of the South, shown in the UK in 2023 and 2024.[34]

Namesakes

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Notable people

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The site of John Wilkes' cottage, just off the High Street
  • John Wilkes (former Lord Mayor of the City of London) stayed regularly in Sandown in the late 18th century at the place he called 'Villakin', also known as Sandham Cottage. A memorial plaque marks the site of the cottage close to the present-day High Street. On Sunday mornings, Wilkes would go to Shanklin Church, and after the service would walk across the fields to Knighton with David Garrick and his wife.[35]
  • Naturalist Charles Darwin worked on the abstract which became On the Origin of Species when staying at Sandown's King's Head Hotel in July 1858. He and his family later moved on to Norfolk House in nearby Shanklin.[36] Darwin also visited the Isle of Wight on other occasions, and was photographed there by Julia Margaret Cameron in 1868.[37]
  • The writer George Eliot (Mary Ann Evans) stayed in Sandown during a two-week visit to the Isle of Wight in June 1863, having recently published her novels Romola and Silas Marner.[38]
Germany's Crown Prince and Princess and their family spent the summer of 1874 in Sandown

Twin towns

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Sandown had a twinning (jumelée in French) arrangement with the town of Tonnay-Charente in the western French département of Charente-Maritime although the relationship was reported to be 'in tatters' in 2002.[49] Sandown has also been twinned with the United States city of St. Pete Beach, Florida.

See also

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Christ Church, Sandown's parish church consecrated in 1847

References

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  1. ^ "Sandown". City Population. Retrieved 16 September 2023.
  2. ^ "Isle of Wight". City Population. Retrieved 16 September 2023.
  3. ^ a b Trott, Kevin (2002). "An Intervention Excavation of an Iron Age Coastal Site at Redcliff, Sandown, Isle of Wight" (PDF). Hampshire Studies 2002 Proceedings of the Hampshire Field Club & Archaeological Society. 57: 20–29. Retrieved 6 May 2021.
  4. ^ "A brief history of Sandham Fort". Island Eye.
  5. ^ History of the Isle of Wight by Sir Richard Worsley, 1781
  6. ^ "Bembridge Fort and Downs". The National Trust.
  7. ^ Wilkes, John; Almon, John (1805). The correspondence of the late John Wilkes: with his friends. Retrieved 17 September 2013.
  8. ^ The Isle of Wight Chronicle. 30 July 1874. No greater recommendation can be given to the excellent bathing facilities possessed by Sandown than recording the fact that the members of the Imperial family take every possible advantage of them by bathing almost daily...
  9. ^ "The Ocean Hotel, Sandown". Isle of Wight Observer. 20 May 1899.
  10. ^ Toogood, Darren (26 February 2021). "Doors open at £10 million Premier Inn on Sandown Seafront". Retrieved 27 July 2021.
  11. ^ "The Wildheart Trust". wildheartanimalsanctuary.org.
  12. ^ "Sandham Gardens". sandhamgardens.com.
  13. ^ "The Hampshire Advertiser County Newspaper". 1 June 1878. p. 8.
  14. ^ "The Wreck of the Eurydice". Royal Collection Trust.
  15. ^ "Isle of Wight Biosphere Reserve". UNESCO. Retrieved 28 October 2024.
  16. ^ "Isle of Wight Shoreline Management Plan 2" (PDF). Isle of Wight Council. December 2010. Archived from the original (PDF) on 4 October 2015. Retrieved 28 October 2024.
  17. ^ "Coastal Communities Economic Plan, Sandown Bay" (PDF). Coastal Communities Alliance. May 2016. Archived from the original (PDF) on 21 April 2021. Retrieved 28 October 2024.
  18. ^ "Sandown Meadows Nature Reserve | Hampshire and Isle of Wight Wildlife Trust". www.hiwwt.org.uk.
  19. ^ Historic England. "Town Hall (1034283)". National Heritage List for England. Retrieved 14 October 2021.
  20. ^ "Council approve housing plan for Sandown's historic town hall". Island Echo. 19 March 2021. Retrieved 14 October 2021.
  21. ^ "Notice is pursuant to section 95 of the Localism Act 2011" (PDF). Isle of Wight Council. 20 September 2021. Retrieved 14 October 2021.
  22. ^ "Major clues uncovered to Sandown's Victorian ceiling 'masterpiece' during forensic investigation". 26 April 2022.
  23. ^ "Long neglected historic building has positive future". 4 August 2023.
  24. ^ "Sausages and Golf" (PDF).
  25. ^ "Brown's Golf Course, Isle of Wight - Conservation Management Plan". Issuu. 15 July 2020.
  26. ^ "'The Sandown Carnival', report in Isle of Wight County Press, Saturday 13 July 1889 'Alike with some of its sister towns, Sandown has "tried its hand" at a Carnival, and an undoubted success has to be recorded'".
  27. ^ "Sandown celebrates heritage and creativity with successful Regatta Hat Factory project".
  28. ^ "Boojum and Snark join Beer and Buses this weekend". On the Wight. 8 October 2019.
  29. ^ "Timetables". South Western Railway. 10 December 2023. Retrieved 14 March 2024.
  30. ^ "Sandown Bus Services". Bus Times. 2024. Retrieved 14 March 2024.
  31. ^ Archived at Ghostarchive and the Wayback Machine: "Take That's 'I Found Heaven' video". YouTube. 7 January 2015.
  32. ^ "That'll Be The Day locations". Reelstreets.
  33. ^ "Tiger Island". Athena Films.
  34. ^ "Isle of Wight: Jewel of the South, Channel 5 website".
  35. ^ Toms, Jan (1 July 2018). "John Wilkes on the Isle of Wight". Jan Toms Brief Biographies.
  36. ^ "Letter to W D Fox". Darwin Correspondence Project. 21 July 1858.
  37. ^ [1] Charles Darwin by Julia Margaret Cameron, V&A Collection
  38. ^ Eliot, George. "George Eliot's Life". Project Gutenberg.
  39. ^ "Queen Victoria's Journals". 31 July 1874.
  40. ^ Carroll, Lewis (1996). A Portrait With Background by Donald Thomas (Chapter 10 'Dreaming as the Summers Die'). John Murray. ISBN 0-7195-5323-7.
  41. ^ Kennedy, Michael (1999). Richard Strauss: Man, Musician, Enigma. Cambridge University Press. ISBN 9780521027748.
  42. ^ Baker, Alfred (1919). "The Life of Sir Isaac Pitman (Inventor of Phonography)". Sir Isaac Pitman & Sons. p. 172.
  43. ^ "John Hannam archive interview with Frankie Howerd in 1980 about working on the Isle of Wight (25 mins of audio)". Isle of Wight Radio.
  44. ^ "Sandown Pier and its performers". IoW Beacon. 1 June 2017.
  45. ^ "Tributes to Anthony Minghella". BBC Hampshire and Isle of Wight. 28 October 2014.
  46. ^ Mengham, Rod (22 March 2017). "Renegade in Springtime". Times Literary Supplement.
  47. ^ "Thomas Gibson & Thomas Field Gibson". Dictionary of Unitarian and Universalist Biography. Retrieved 20 November 2017.
  48. ^ "Mary Ellis obituary". The Guardian. 29 July 2018.
  49. ^ "Frenchman 'used town twinning for cheap holidays". Daily Telegraph. 19 April 2002.
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