Rock Master
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Rock Master is an international competition climbing event that is held every year in Arco, Italy. The event takes place in two rounds: the first is an on-sight session and the second is called "after work". The final classification is given by the sum of the two events. On Friday the athletes are given a chance to survey the work route, and the actual climbing takes place on Saturday and Sunday. At the competition, two prestigious awards, known as the "Oscars of climbing", are presented: the Salewa Rock Award, and the La Sportiva Competition Award.[1]
History
[edit]In 1985 it was disputed for the first time Sportroccia to Bardonecchia. The following year the event was tied to a stop at the side of the Colodri of Arc. Right on the wall of the Colodri in 1987, played in the first Rock Master. The following year, the race left the rock and from that moment is played only on artificial in a large open space at the base of Colodri. Since 1999, in addition to lead climbing, bouldering and speed climbing competitions were also held.
Since 2006, during the event, a jury give out the "Arco Rock Legends", two awards that are considered the Oscars of climbing:[1]
- Salewa Rock Award for the athlete with the best performance on single-pitch sport climbs and boulders.
- La Sportiva Competition Award for the best athlete who has competed in the previous competition season.
Format
[edit]The competition is usually held the first weekend of September, with a few exceptions:
- in 2010 has been brought forward to July as a pre-event of the World Championship of climbing that would take place in 2011. Instead of the usual two rounds (worked and view) a competition was held to only classical view in three rounds: qualifiers, semi-finals, and finals.
- in 2011 instead of the Rock Master was held in July at the Arco Climbing World Championship in 2011. The title of the Rock Master was, however, given the evidence of the Duel, a competition demonstration that took place at the end of the World Championship and was attended by the first sixteen male and female athletes of the league lead.[2]
In 2012 the speed test was valid also as the fourth leg of the World Cup speed climbing 2012.[3]
Winners
[edit]Lead
[edit]
Bouldering
[edit]| Year | Male | Female |
|---|---|---|
| 1999 |  Daniel Andrada |  Elena Choumilova |
| 2000 |  Tomasz Oleksy | Natalia Novikova |
| 2001 | Salavat Rakhmetov |  Corinne Théroux |
| 2002 |  Mauro Calibani | Ol'ga Jakovleva |
| 2003 | Mauro Calibani | Olga Bibik |
| 2004 |  Matthias Müller | Mélanie Son |
| 2005 |  Kilian Fischhuber | Mélanie Son |
| 2006 |  Nalle Hukkataival | Anna Stöhr |
| 2007 |  Gareth Parry | Anna Stöhr |
| 2008 | Kilian Fischhuber | Katharina Saurwein |
| 2009 | Kilian Fischhuber | Alizée Dufraisse |
| 2010 | Cédric Lachat | Anna Stöhr |
| 2011 | - | - |
| 2012 | Dmitrij Šarafutdinov |  Alex Puccio |
| 2013 | Rustam Gelmanov | Alex Puccio |
Speed
[edit]| Year | Male | Female |
|---|---|---|
| 1999 |  Vladimir Zakharov | |
| 2000 | Alexei Gadeev | |
| 2001 | Iakov Soubotine | |
| 2002 | Tomasz Oleksy | |
| 2003 | Alexei Gadeev | |
| 2004 | Tomasz Oleksy | |
| 2005 | Tomasz Oleksy | |
| 2006 | Sergey Sinitsyn | |
| 2007 | Evgenij Vajcechovskij | |
| 2008 |  Manuel Escobar | Olena Ryepko |
| 2009 |  Libor Hroza | Edyta Ropek |
| 2010 | Libor Hroza |  Cuilian He |
| 2011 | - | - |
| 2012 | Leonardo Gontero | Alina Gaydamakina |
| 2013 | Libor Hroza | Alina Gaydamakina |
| 2014 | Libor Hroza | Anouck Jaubert |
Duel
[edit]| Year | Male | Female |
|---|---|---|
| 2011 | Adam Ondra | Yana Chereshneva |
| 2012 | Jakob Schubert | Dinara Fakhritdinova |
| 2013 |  Sean McColl | Dinara Fakhritdinova |
| 2014 | Sean McColl | Dinara Fakhritdinova |
| 2015 | Adam Ondra | Hélène Janicot |
| Year | Salewa Rock Award | La Sportiva Competition Award |
|---|---|---|
| 2006 | Josune Bereziartu | Angela Eiter |
| 2007 | Patxi Usobiaga | David Lama |
| 2008 | Adam Ondra |  Maja Vidmar |
| 2009 | Chris Sharma | Kilian Fischhuber |
| 2010 | Adam Ondra |  Akiyo Noguchi |
| 2011 | Adam Ondra | Ramón Julián Puigblanque |
| 2012 | Sasha DiGiulian | Anna Stöhr |
| 2013 | Adam Ondra | Mina Markovič |
| 2014 |  Muriel Sarkany | Urko Carmona Barandiaran |
| 2015 |  Alexander Megos | Adam Ondra |
| 2016 | Daniel Andrada | Mina Markovič |
| 2017 | Margo Hayes | Janja Garnbret |
References
[edit]- ^ a b c "Arco Rock Legends 2017: Six Nominations for Sport Oscar". Gripped.com. 25 August 2017. Retrieved 20 January 2022.
- ^ Vinicio Stefanello. "Rock Master Gran Galà – Duel". arco2011.it. Retrieved 1 April 2013.
- ^ "Speed World Cup, historic victory for Leonardo Gontero and Gaydamakina". planetmountain.com. 1 September 2012. Retrieved 1 April 2013.
Bibliography
[edit]- Malfer, Giulio; Stefanello, Vinicio (2005). Rock Master. Nicolodi. ISBN 978-8884471949.